Taking this class, winter in Rome, might have been the best decision I’ve made in my life. Not only did I learn immensely about the history of Rome and the art that built and surrounds it, but I made lasting experiences and life long connections whilst here.
To put it simply, I never want to leave (no offense to Wisconsin).
It’s so hard to choose one favorite thing we did on our trip. Going to Assisi for a day is one of the experiences that is at the top of the list.
The Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi
Even though it was cold and windy there, we had the time of our lives. The Basilica of St Francis is one of the most beautiful Basilicas that I’ve been to and I was really interested in learning about the frescos, especially in the upper church because it’s the first case that perspective was beginning to be used, which changed the history of painting forever. The frescos had a very storybook feel to them which made me feel nostalgic.
Apart from visiting the Basilica, we also hiked to Rocca Maggiore.
The country side is definitely more my type and I absolutely adore castles. Walking through the medieval village made my heart happy and the people I explored it with made everything so much better. I can easily imagine myself starting a new life there.
We all had the time of our lives and stayed up at the top of the castle for far longer than we should have—I could feel the chill all the way in my bones. One of the funniest parts of the day is when we were outside and our professors were at the top of the castle. They yelled and waved and we yelled back, one of us jokingly confessing their love and appreciation towards the group, getting down on one knee and finishing their wine.
I had the pleasure of making three ceramic pieces at Creta during my stay in Rome!
The first thing I made was a tile inspired by the ceiling of the Basilica of St Mark Evangelist at Campidoglio. The building itself has a Renaissance era facade with an elaborate Baroque style interior.
TileCeiling of the Basilica of St Mark Evangelist
The second thing I made was a plate that which is inspired by the cobblestone paths that are all around Rome.
PlateCobblestone path outside of hotel
Lastly, I also made a mug that was inspired by a vase I found in the Capitoline museums, although instead of adding blue I left the terra-cotta color of the clay to show through.
MugVase found in the Capitoline museum
I had so much fun working in the studio, getting to know my classmates better, and learning from Paulo! This trip wouldn’t have felt so special without it.
Capitoline Hill, one of the seven hills of Rome, holds great historical and cultural significance. This iconic hill, rich with history, is home to important Roman temples, the Piazza del Campidoglio, the renowned Capitoline Museums, and more. Located next to the Roman Forum, this site is believed to be the very place where Rome was originally founded. Throughout its dense history, Capitoline Hill served many purposes and underwent many developments throughout the eras that made it one of the top tourist sites in Rome today.
3D aerial view of Capitoline Hill
The hill’s earliest history dates back to almost 3,000 years ago, or the Bronze Age. Because the hill was tall, steep, and located near the Tiber river, it became a strategic defense post against outside invaders. By 509 BC, with the founding of the Roman Republic, Rome became the center of power in the ancient world. The representative government came with the senate, which became the sole governing body. With this new development, Capitoline Hill became an important site where important temples and government buildings were constructed, making it the heart of the city–serving as both the religious and political hub of ancient Rome. Still throughout the years, the hill continued to be a strategic defense site as during the Roman Republic, the hill was used to defend attacks from the north.
During the Roman Republic, Capitoline Hill underwent significant expansion and development. New buildings and temples, including the impressive Temple of Capitoline Jupiter and the Temple of Juno Moneta, were constructed. The Temple of Jupiter stood proudly on Capitoline Hill and paved the way for the renowned Pantheon. Originally a religious site, Inside the temple of Jupiter an altar was built that honored the Capitoline Triad of the Roman gods Jupiter, Juno Regina, and Minerva. The Temple of Jupiter is the most significant Temple in ancient Rome because he was originally linked to the founding of Rome. It was Jupiter who sent a sign to Romulus (who founded Rome). It is also believed that Tarquinius Priscus (an Etruscan king of Rome) decided to build the Temple in the pre-Republican period. It was at the foundation of the Republican period that the consul Horatius Pulvillus dedicated the Temple.
During the Roman Republic and into the Roman Empire, the Temple of Jupiter became a political, religious, and civic center. The first meetings of the Senate took place at that site and sacrifices were made before entering.
Throughout the years, the Temple went through multiple destructions and reconstructions. The original temple is believed to have been built from mud brick with stucco(kind of plaster) and cappellaccio tufo foundations mined directly from the site it was built on. It is estimated that the temple was around 53 x 63 meters (173 x 206 ft) big. Along with that, the temple was comprised of three cella, or temple chambers (Jupiter in the middle, Juno on the left, and Minerva on the right). It is almost impossible to guess correctly what the temple looked like but by using historical contexts, historians still guess. The most common description shows a large foundation with a tall podium to raise a porch which was filled with columns (Tuscan order), or colonnades (a row of columns supporting a roof). In all, there could have been six columns at the front of the temple and then two more rows of the same columns to the facade(front exterior) and the front walls of the interior.
The adornments to the temple were made by Etrusction sculptor Vulca. Placed on the ridge of the original temple was a sculpted quadriga, or four-hour chariot) that was painted terracotta. Vulca also made a terracotta statue of Jupiter that was housed in the central cellar dedicated to Jupiter himself. The cult statue depicted him standing and brandishing a thunderbolt and wearing garments that later became the attire for Roman Generals. The roof, along with the cornices(or moldings) of the temple was embellished with terracotta figures and revetments.
The most important feature of the temple was the unprecedented size of it that paved the way for later constructions. The Temple of Jupiter symbolizes sovereignty and immortality and acts as a display of Roman power. Eventually the fall of the Roman Empire in 1453 led to the destruction of the temple, leaving only ruins. For a time, the site became abandoned and a place where people herded cattle.
Under the Roman Empire, Capitoline Hill transformed into the grand center of power and administration. The Tabularium, an archive building, showcased the administrative powers of Rome and symbolized authority. In an attempt to redevelop Capitoline Hill after a fire in 83 BC, the Tabularium was built by Quintus Lutatius Catulus in 78 BC. This building was used as the official records office and housed city officials. The multi-storied building was set on a tall basement against the side of the hill, underneath the Temple of Jupiters and neighbors with the Temple of Veiovis, making it ground level with the Forum. The Tabularium is characterized by a first floor narrow corridor with rectangle openings, or windows, to provide light within the building. The next floor consists of a pavilion-vaulted gallery adorned with large archways. Another upper floor was used to house the public archives of the time. Within the basement, there was a steep staircase that joined the Forum level to the temple of Veiovis, with a second staircase that also led to the upper floor of the Tabularium. During the Middle Ages, a fortress was built over the Tabularium. What remains of the original Tabularium today is the gallery. What stands in its place today is the Palazzo Senatorio built during the 13th and 14th centuries.
Today, Capitoline Hill is known for the Piazza del Campidoglio (also known as Capitoline Square), one of Michelangelo’s architectural masterpieces during the Renaissance in 1536. The square is framed by the Palazzo Senatorio (Palace of Senators), Palazzo dei Conservatori(Palace of the Conservators), the Palazzo Nuovo, and the Cordonata Staircase. The square takes on the shape of a trapezoid. Michelangelo designed it in this way to visually open up to the city. It was also his decision to add new facades to the existing buildings of the Palazzo Senatorio and the Palazzo Conservatori to unify the square and have them face the city instead of the square. He also added the third, Palazzo Nuovo, to provide symmetry as that was a common feature of the Renaissance. To access the square, the Cordonata Staircase was erected after Michelangelo’s death in the 17th century. Another key feature of the square is the uniform pavement formed by stars to create overlapping triangles. Together, the triangles combine to create a twelve-pointed star and was not officially completed until 1940.
Drawing of Piazza del Campidoglio on Capitoline Hill
The Capitoline Museums are also housed within the Piazza del Campidoglio, taking up residence in the Palazzo dei Conservatori and the Palazzo Nuovo. The Capitoline Museums originally trace back to 1471 when Pope Sixtus IV donated a collection of ancient bronzes to the citizens of Rome. Today, these museums display archeological artifacts and artistic masterpieces. The stature of Emperor Marcus Aurelius in the center of the Piazza del Campidoglio is a copy, but the original can be found within the museum. With its history, the Capitoline Museums are considered to be the first in the world.
Capitoline Hill stands as a testament to the grandeur and significance of Rome throughout the ages. Its historical and cultural importance, along with its architectural marvels such as the Temple of Jupiter and the Piazza del Campidoglio, make it a top tourist attraction. After researching and learning more about Capitoline Hill and what it consists of, I am immensely more excited to visit. Originally, I was most excited to see the works of art that are housed within the museums, but there is so much more to it than that. A journey to Capitoline Hill is literally a journey through history.
The 17th century brought with it one of the most captivating art movements, the Baroque Period. Born in the aftermath of the Counter Reformation and succeeding the High Renaissance and Mannerism, the Baroque movement focused less on the idealized and more about emotion, contrast, and movement. The goal was to link Jesus to humanity and make religion more accessible to everyday people, telling stories that instructed and inspired. The drama of baroque paintings spread like wildfire across Europe and continues to captivate the people of today.
Harris Gallery of Baroque Art – Palmer Museum of Art
Baroque painting is characterized by its dramatic and dynamic compositions that tell stories. The focus is on the foreground and often portrays a moment in time that is filled with movement and emotion, which invites the audience in. Painters of this time spent time observing the human body in intense motion and perfected expressing the observed reality and emotionalism of it. The common use of foreshortening also aids in the sense of movement, but also invades the space of the viewer, making it a more intimate experience. Intense drama was created through the stark contrasts between light and dark, a technique called chiaroscuro. This violent contrast creates a vividness and adds energy to the paintings. Dark backgrounds would highlight the subjects pushing everything to only the foreground, making it seem as if you could reach out and touch the scene depicted. Intersected diagonal lines were also used to create movement, which was very different from the Renaissance that predated the Baroque. The Renaissance favored a clear light, depth(foreground, middleground, background), and the idealized, all very different from what the Baroque evolved.
Caravaggio, THE CALLING OF ST MATTHEW, Oil on canvass, 1600
One of the most famous painters from the Baroque period is Caravaggio(1571-1610). He is an Italian painter and is known for his use of chiaroscuro and while he didn’t invent it, he popularized and mastered the technique. He is also said to have invented the technique called tenebrism, which focused on the darkest areas of a painting to create a spotlight effect. Caravaggio’s work blended religious and secular topics and used light to tell his story. The Calling of St. Matthew is a prime example of how he worked. It depicts a dark tavern where what seems to be normal men have turned dramatically to face the arrival of a figure. The scene is caught in action as the muscles are shown to be tensing as if they are in use. The figure, Christ, is gesturing towards Matthew, who seems to be pointing at himself in question to confirm Christ is acknowledging him. This action creates a diagonal line through the painting, guided by the light cast through which aids in the storytelling.
Ruebens, THE VIRGIN AND CHRIST CHILD, WITH SAINTS ELIZABETH AND JOHN THE BAPTIST, Oil on panel, 1618
Another famous painter was Peter Paul Ruebens(1577-1640). He is a Flemish artist who is celebrated for his dynamic compositions combined with the use of vibrant colors. His work often depicted ancient themes and religious scenes that exuded energy and sensuality. Moreover, he created art that portrayed religious figures as human beings, making them more relatable. In his painting, The Virgin and Christ Child, with Saints Elizabeth and John the Baptist, he depicts its namesake. Dressed in secular clothing, we see Mary, with an exposed breast which references the need for physical nourishment and connects Jesus with his humanity, who she is holding. Near them we see St. Elizabeth holding St. John over a lamb. Again, the subjects are placed in front of a dark background, which brings them close to us.
Gentileschi, JUDITH SLAYING HOLOFERNES, Oil on canvas, 1612-1613
Artemisia Gentileschi(1593-1653) was a female Italian painter who, like Caravaggio, specialized in realistic dramatic paintings and explored the use of chiaroscuro. As a woman in society, Gentileschi portrayed themes of abuse, rape, and violence in her paintings. She depicted women from biblical stories giving them more power by identifying them as being able to make their own decisions within a man’s society. An example of this is her painting, Judith Slaying Holofernes. In the painting, Gentileschi portrays the strength of women. In this biblical scene, we see Judith and her companion, Abra, behead Assyrian general Holofernes. It is a violent scene and no detail goes unnoticed as you can see the stream of blood flow down the side of the mattress. The use of light with the dramatic shadow and contrast of the dark background highlights the figures and brings you to the moment in time. We are caught in mid action and half expect to see the sword fly up in the air and the head roll off of the bed and out of frame.
Baroque painting stands as a testament to the artistic innovation of the 17th, going from the idealized of the Renaissance to depicting realism. I find myself drawn to the intricate details, dramatic compositions, and masterful uses of light and shadow. I am a huge fan of the dramatics and Baroque art perfectly encapsulates that. Baroque art continues to mesmerize audiences around the world. Its legacy lives on through the works of Caravaggio, Rubens, and Gentileschi.
Roman architecture was of utmost importance to the ancient Romans to communicate to others the power that the empire had. Architecture from the Roman Empire dates roughly from the late first century BCE to the fifth century CE and was influenced by classical Greek architecture. Common characteristics of ancient Roman architecture include arches, concrete structures, domes, and columns, all based on symmetry and equal proportions. Arches were often used because of their strength, but also for their beauty. The curve of the arches distribute weight and allow for support to the ground. In the later half of the Republican era, architects began experimenting with concrete which made it possible for later constructions such as the Pantheon.
Diagram of the Three Classical Orders
Ancient Roman columns were taken straight out of the Ancient Greek playbook. There are three classical Greek orders–Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian and two more invented by the Romans–Composite and Tuscan. The Doric order is the oldest and most simple of the three classical and characterized by a plain and unadorned column capital and a column that has no base. The Doric entablature (horizontal structure of moldings and bands that lay above the columns) include a frieze composed of triglyphs and metopes. The qualities of the Ionic order consists of a supportive base and volutes (spiral scroll located at the top of the column). Compared to the Doric order, the Iconic appears more slender and graceful, almost feminine while the Doric is more masculine. The Ionic order also includes a frieze of continuous sculptural relief. The Corinthian order is defined by its elaborate and decorative carved capital, the most complex of the three classical orders. It is adorned with carved leaves of the acanthus plant and like the Ionic order the column is kept slender and elegant. The Corinthian order later gave rise to the Composite order. For most of my life, I categorized all decorative columns into one, when they are really more complex than that. Each order has a full history behind it that made it significant in its time. We still see the influence of these columns today, as they adorn most government buildings in the United States. I find it interesting that something so simple still influences the modern world today. Another huge influence on the modern world that dates back to ancient Rome is the aqueducts.
The aqueducts were one of the greatest engineering achievements of the ancient world. The Roman aqueducts provided a reliable source of fresh water to the city and even increased sanitary conditions as there was a constant flow of new and clean water. Although aqueducts weren’t invented by the Romans, they were perfected as they built a complex network throughout their territory. Impressive in size, these structures spanned for miles, some as far 57 miles in length. They varied in the way they were constructed–pipes, tunnels, canals, and bridges.
Pont du Gard in France, limestone
Aqueduct of Segovia in Spain, Guadarrama granite
The Pont du Gard in France and the Aqueduct of Segovia in Spain are aqueducts that have withstood the years, providing insight to how the ancient world worked. What is left today are the bridges, built from high stone arches. The Pont du Gard, located in modern day France stands 160 feet tall and brought water to the city of Nemausus. Its most notable characteristic are the three levels of arches it adorns. The first two levels contain massive arches that stretch 82 feet to provide support. The third level holds the water channel, built from smaller arches that stretch only 15 feet in length. The aqueducts were also built with a natural slope to it (the engineers needed to calculate how to gradually lower the slope), which allowed for gravity to carry the water efficiently and effortlessly. within the aqueduct water channel In their prime, around three hundred million gallons of water were brought into the city of Rome a day by 14 different aqueducts. Once the water reached the city, it was used to supply public baths, fountains, and for irrigation along with drinking, and sewage. These aqueducts paved the way and revolutionized city planning, inspiring future generations.
Italy is renowned for its rich culture, historical landmarks, and delectable cuisines. One of the best ways to immerse yourself in all three is by visiting the bustling local markets scattered throughout Rome. Exploring these markets might be one of the things I am most excited to do in Rome. Whether you like a traditional farmers market, antique markets, or designer markets, you are sure to find something you like.
Located in the heart of Rome, Campo de’ Fiori is a daily farmers market (Monday-Saturday mornings) that provides an array of fresh produce, flowers, cheeses, meats, spices, and more. Campo de’ Fiori has a rich history and its name translates to ‘Field of Flowers’ for in the Middle Ages, it used to be a flower meadow. It was once a horse market, and the site of public executions. As the most popular market in Rome, it is a popular spot for both locals and tourists. There, you can stock up on ingredients to make a traditional Italian meal or go to soak up the vibes of the vibrant atmosphere. Because we are visiting for a short time, I don’t think I will buy any of the produce, but along the market stalls, there are plenty of surrounding cafes and restaurants to explore. At night, the square becomes a lively social place where people come together to eat and have drinks, which I will be sure to attend!
up close view of market stalls at Campo de’ Fiori
market traffic at Campo de’ Fiori
Nestled in the Trastevere neighborhood of Rome, Porta Portese is one of the largest and most colorful flea/antique markets in Italy. If you are like me, and love vintage shopping and thrifting, this is the place to go. Open on Sundays, the market offers a mix of antiques and collectables, vintage clothing, handmade crafts, and artwork. I am excited to explore Porta Portese to find unique items at low prices. After you are done shopping, you can take a walk along the charming squares of Trastevere and visit important cultural landmarks of Italy such as the Basicalia di Santa Cecilia, which is on my Italian bucket list.
walk between the vibrant market stalls of Porta Portese
an up close look at a market stall selling clothing
Lastly, situated in the Flaminio district of Rome, the Borghetto Flaminio market is a favorite for those searching for designer pieces at an affordable price. Also open on Sundays, this market is well known for its collection of designer labels along with a selection of vintage clothing and accessories. Shopping at the Borghetto Flaminio market provides a special experience for those in search of those one-of-a-kind items that you cannot find anywhere else. I am determined to find an affordable designer piece at this market.
designer items for sale at Borghetto Flaminio market
other vintage and collectable items for sale at Borghetto Flaminio market
Exploring Italian markets is an adventure in itself, providing a glimpse into Rome’s vibrant culture and tradition. Whether you are a food lover, antique collector, or fashion enthusiast, the markets of Campo de’ Fiori, Porta Portese, and Borghetto Flaminio have something to offer. These markets not only provide an opportunity to shop for unique treasures but will also allow me to interact with locals and soak in the lively atmosphere. I won’t miss the chance to visit these iconic markets and immerse myself in Italian culture.
Rome in Winter 